Daily, feed a high-quality, varied diet of pellets and seeds. Raise their protein during pregnancy, lactation, and periods of stress such as breeding time or changing homes. Do this by purchasing a diet that is higher in protein content or by adding boiled eggs, cheese, tofu, etc.  Just be sure to remove any uneaten raw foods from the cage in 12 hours or less.

 

Hamsters are actually desert creatures. They come from a habitat with little water. In the wild they eat seeds, grasses, insects etc. For this reason, it is not a good idea to feed your hamster too many fresh vegetables or fruits as it can cause diarrhea (fatal for hamsters). Save the fresh veggies for hand-feeding and treats. Buy a good treat mix (preferably dehydrated fruits and vegetables) for social times. They love carrots, cucumbers, broccoli, cauliflower. They also love apples, pears, peaches, and bananas. Dehydrated treats are less likely to cause loose bowels.

 

Avoid "junk food" such as candy or chocolate at all costs! Avoid diets too rich in sunflower seeds as they are too high in fat (leading to obesity) and do not contain sufficient calcium for strong bones and teeth.

 

Some treats come in "hangers" that hang from the side of the cage. This is a good idea. The less the treats come into contact with the litter in the cage, the less chance for contamination. Additionally, hanging or "hiding" the food inside treat dispensers adds variety of activity to your hamster's day. They are, after all, scavengers who would spend their entire day in the wild looking for and transporting food in small quanatities to their den. Hamters in captivity often suffer the doldrums of frustration and boredom, leading to early death.

 

Give as much stimulation as possible. (See our articles on cage design to add stimulation to your hamster's environment.)

 

Don't be fooled when you put the food into a bowl and discover it completely empty in just a few hours. Hamsters are natural horders. They will usually move the food from the bowl and place it in a corner den, safe and hidden from view.

 

Give plenty of fresh water. A water bottle is better than a bowl because it won't get contaminated by hamster droppings.

 

A balanced diet should ensure that extra vitamins and minerals are not needed. However, if in doubt, a good all-round hamster vitamin is not injurious. Additionally, a mineral wheel is very beneficial for keeping your hamster's teeth from overgrowing. Overgrown rodent teeth lead to malformation of the face, poor eating, and eventually death. (Hamster teeth grow continually. Chew toys and mineral blocks should be provided for "chewing" to ensure that the teeth are worn down well at all times.)

 

Hamsters MUST HAVE an exercise device of some type. A wheel inside or attached to his cage is essential. (You can purchase squeak-proof wheels if you sn't like the nocturnal spinning of his habitual running cycle). He will enjoy a racer or exercise ball. He MUST exercise in order to digest his food and to avoid life-threatening intestinal blockages.